Thursday 20 October 2011

Jewelry CAD Design Vs Old School Hand Carved Models


Both my partner and I come from an old school approach to making jewelry Jewelry CAD Design models. He was very traditionally trained in Russia as an Master Engraver. I come from a graphics background which is driven by computer based software tools. We do not design slick engineered pieces typically sold to the retail jewelry market. For 5000 years or so the basic method of casting anything has remained the same. Most of the techniques have be tweaked and improved but the process has changed very little. This brings us to a discussion about jewelry CAD programs, drawing and the two processes of producing molds for casting.
The creative process of taking a drawing is very organic. I find I never draw the same thing the same twice. Each time some element changes during the creative process. Other ideas are born with some things hitting the floor. Because my partner and I collaborate on designs at different stages this moves in many directions. There is a point where you let it go and just make it, a prototype. Usually I draw at a larger scale then the finished piece will be produced. It can be a little tricky. The overall detail once reduced can change the entire feel of the piece. It's best to do a dummy check as your progressing. Note we are still designing/drawing by hand for this discussion. From my experience drawing, detailed things become very small and lost overall once reduced. Not to misunderstand, the very smallest detail can be reproduced it's just a matter of design expectation. One important thing worth noting is if you work in silver and oxidize be instinctively aware of what's polished and what's black during the creative process. I can make or break a great design.
Once the design is "finalized" we cut a wax model, by hand. Moving from 2D to 3D can make or break the concept. The wax itself has it's own detail limitations. For our work an hand cut lends character. Where we loose too much we go back and work the sterling metal by hand, engraving more detail. Summary- 2D drawing, wax model cut, cast in sterling, engrave the casting and make the final mold. The process can be painstakingly long when your in the creative moment. Patience!

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